by Bruce D. Osborn
- 1.1 Parts Needed and Suppliers
- 1.2 Engine Sources
- 1.3 Engine Removal
- 1.4 Transmission and Transfer Case Removal
- 1.5 Transmission
- 1.6 Transfer Case
- 1.7 Clutch and Bellhousing Information
- Drivetrain Assembly
- 2.1 Clutch and Bellhousing Installation
- 2.2 Assembling the Engine and Transmission
- 2.3 Assembling the Transmission and Transfer Case
- Installing the New Drivetrain
- 3.1 Engine Location
- Finishing Touches
- 4.1 Clutch Linkage
- 4.2 Saginaw Steering
- 4.3 Driveshafts
- 4.4 Brake Pedal
- 4.5 Exhaust
- 4.6 Radiator
- 4.7 Gas Pedal
- 4.8 Wiring
- 4.9 Brakes
- Parts Suppliers
If you own an old Willys Jeep you know that the four cylinder motor does not provide enough power to meet the demands of rigorous off-roading. Jeep realized this also and offered a Buick-designed V6 option from 1966 through 1970 in the CJ-5. The "Dauntless" 225 V6 boasted 160 horsepower as opposed to the stock 134's 75 horsepower. With more than twice the horsepower, the V6 only weighs ten pounds more than the 134. If you own a 1953-1964 era CJ-3B, this option was not available and you're stuck with the anemic F-head 134. Fortunately, it is possible to swap the stock motor for the V6.
The easiest thing to do would be to find a salvage yard CJ-5 with a V6, buy the entire drivetrain and replace the CJ-3B drivetrain with that of the CJ-5. Unfortunately, Jeep used a weak T-14 transmission behind the V6. The CJ-3B had a stronger T-90 transmission. Simply swapping the drivetrains would result in a considerable sacrifice in transmission reliability. The best option would be to use the CJ-5 V6 engine with the CJ-3B transmission. But, the transmission bolt patterns are different so it's not possible to bolt the T-90 transmission to the V6 engine.
Advance Adapters Inc. provides the solution to this problem. They manufacture an adapter that allows the T-90 to be bolted to the V6 engine. This offers the best power and reliability possible using the best of two Jeeps. Additionally, it allows the exclusive use of Jeep parts. Buying replacement parts for a Jeep that has a Ford or Chevy motor and a Jeep transmission can be frustrating to say the least.
Note: This manual is not intended to be a stand-alone reference for the V6 engine swap. It is intended to be a supplement covering various problems that are not addressed in the references on the subject. You also need the Universal Jeep Service Manual, the Chilton Jeep 1945 to 1987 Repair Guide, and the Advanced Adapters Jeep Engine and Transmission Conversion Guide.
Since your Jeep will now be a mixture of various parts from several different models of Jeeps, you'll need the Chilton guide to cover the new motor and clutch. The factory Service Manual is the best reference regarding the transmission and transfer case but early editions only cover Jeeps with four cylinder motors (hence the need for the Chilton manual to install the clutch). The Advance Adapters Manual covers the various adapter parts that you will need to install. See the Bibliography for sources.
There are pages in those manuals that will be referred to in this manual. It is necessary to have them at hand while reading this manual, and they also include numerous pictures and diagrams.
Here is a rough idea of the work that is required:
More detail on each of these topics is covered below.
1.1 Parts Needed and Suppliers
Mile Hi Jeep Rebuilders:
Republic or Jeeps Unlimited:
1.2 Engine Sources
Jeep used the "Dauntless" 225 V6 in two different vehicles from 1966 to 1970 --the CJ-5 and the Jeepster Commando. Either engine will work fine. You can findthem in the parts-for-sale section of the newspaper, on the parts-for-salebulletin board at Mile Hi Jeep Rebuilders or at a salvage yard. Try to find the225 odd fire and not the newer 231 even fire. The 231 does not have as strong acrank or nearly as much power. However, the bellhousing bolt pattern and theengine mount locations are the same. If a 225 cannot be located, a 231 can beused in its place. The 231 was used in Buick Regals from 1976 to 1984.
(Ed. note: Photo taken from the 1966 Jeep CJ-5 brochure. Thanks to Mike Boyink.)
It's preferable to obtain the flywheel with the engine since the engine isbalanced with the flywheel at the factory. If this is not possible, you'll haveto obtain one. If possible, try to buy the bellhousing with the engine also sincethey are hard to find (see 1.7 Clutch and Bellhousing Information).
1.3 Engine Removal
Drain the engine of radiator fluid. Remove the fenders, grill and radiator. LABELall the wires connected to the engine and then disconnect them. If you forget tolabel the wires, you'll have to trace all of them back to the ignition switch and use a voltmeter to figure out which one is which when you wire the new motor.Willys never used standardized insulation colors on their ignition harnesses so awiring diagram won't help you to do this. Label the wires carefully. Disconnectthe fuel line, exhaust and the battery. Disconnect the clutch linkages. Supportthe engine and transmission and remove the bolts that secure the bellhousing tothe transmission. Remove the engine. This is covered more completely in theUniversal Jeep Service Manual (page 60).
The stock motor mounts must be cut fromthe frame. A hand held grinder with a cutting wheel works well for this. Be verycareful not to cut off the front brake line brackets that are integral with thebottom of the motor mount. You'll need to carefully cut the mount in half, grindthe rivets off the top and knock the top half of the mount off with a hammer. Ifthe grinder bites and slips when you're cutting the mount you'll undoubtedly cutthe brake line. Be very careful with the grinder.
1.4 Transmission and Transfer Case Removal
Remove the transmission and transfer case following the instructions listed inthe Universal Jeep Service Manual (page 163).
The T-90 will need to have a new input shaft (Advance Adapters kit 716014)installed. Since the transmission must be completely disassembled to install thenew input shaft, now is the time to rebuild it. In order to disassemble thetransmission, the transfer case must be removed. Follow the directions in theUniversal Jeep Service Manual (page 178) when removing the transfer case. TheT-90 is not particularly strong and must be in good condition to accept thehigher power input of the V6 engine. Rebuild parts are available from Mile HiJeep Rebuilders or JC Whitney. The Universal Jeep Service Manual has a very goodsection on rebuilding transmissions (page 163) -- the only thing that you'll bedoing differently is installing the new input shaft instead of the stock one. Thereplacement of all bearings, seals and the synchronizer ring is the minimumamount of rebuiding you can expect.. Evaluate the gears and replace those thatare worn. Pay particular attention to second gear, since it is prone to wear,causing the transmission to fall out of second gear when coasting.
The frontinput shaft bearing must be replaced. The new input shaft does not come with thebearing installed. Take the new input shaft and a new bearing (don't try andre-use the old one) to a machine shop and have them press it on. It doesn't costmuch and it is very easy to damage the bearing if you try to hammer it onyourself. If the bearing is damaged, it will fail in short order. A new frontbearing retainer is included with the Advance Adapters kit. Follow theinstructions included with the kit when assembling the transmission in order toensure that the input shaft oil seal is installed correctly.
1.6 Transfer Case
You should inspect the transfer case for wear. The intermediate shaft and itsbearings will probably need to be replaced. If it's been awhile since thetransfer case was rebuilt, the output shaft endplay should be checked. Endplay isadjusted by changing the number of shims between the case and the output bearingretainer. If the endplay is not adjusted correctly, the transfer case will beextremely noisy and the output bearings will fail prematurely. Again, there is asection in the Universal Jeep Service Manual on transfer case rebuilding (page179). The transfer case is extremely strong and if rebuilt correctly, will acceptthe increased power input reliably. Mile Hi Jeep Rebuilders will have all therebuild parts that you need.
1.7 Clutch and Bellhousing Information
The stock clutch will not work on the V6. You will have to use a GM 10-1/2"clutch. These parts can be purchased at most auto part stores. There are threedifferent types of 10-1/2" clutches that will fit. Any one of them is fine if youcan't find the part numbers listed above. Just make sure to buy the pressureplate, disc and throwout bearing at one store so that you get parts that arecompatible with each other. Resist the urge to buy rebuilt clutch parts. Thedemands on a four wheel drive clutch are much greater than most otherapplications and rebuilt clutch parts aren't of high enough quality to use.
A Jeep 225 bellhousing must be obtained from a 1966 through 1970 V6 equippedJeep. They are, unfortunately getting quite hard to find. Republic Jeep is agood source for the bellhousing. This will probably be the hardest part to find.You will also need a new flywheel. Jeep used two different ones; a 32 pound and a53 pound version. The heavier one will yield the best off-road results. These arealso available at Republic Jeep.
When the engine andbellhousing are assembled at the factory, they align the transmission borewith the pilot hole in the crankshaft (I didn't know this when I bought my engine). When you replace the bellhousing, you don't know where the pilottip of the transmission input shaft is going to line up. It may only be offby fractions of an inch but when you consider how long the transmissioninput shaft is on a V6 conversion, it can end up really out of whack. Bellhousing misalignment is indicated by excessive pilot shaftbushing wear, which I discovered when I replaced the throwout bearing aftera really fun romp in sand dunes outside of Pritchert Canyon in Moab. When Iused a clutch aligning tool during the reassembly, suddenly a T-18 aligningtool would fit in the old pilot shaft bearing but wouldn't fit in the newbearing. There are really nice offset pins available for Chevy smallblocksthat you can use to align the bellhousing, but nothing for the V6. Mysolution is a TH350 which is my next modification.
You'll need to assemble the V6 engine, transmission and transfer case beforeinstalling them in the Jeep. This is necessary in order to correctly locate theassembly in the chassis.
2.1 Clutch and Bellhousing Installation
Use the Chilton manual as a reference to assembling the clutch (page 333).
Use thread lock compound on all clutch component bolts. Make sure that you followthe instructions for the 225 and not the stock 134 engine. After you haveinstalled the flywheel, assembled the clutch and installed the bellhousing, makesure that the throwout arm is positioned towards the motor side of the hole inthe bellhousing and not the transmission side. The lever moves from front to backwhen you step on the clutch and it won't have enough travel to disengage theclutch if it's too close to the transmission side. If it turns out that it is inthe wrong location, you'll need to install an adjustable throwout lever pivotfrom Mile Hi Jeep Rebuilders. It's impossible to tell if you'll need anadjustable pivot until you assemble the clutch. Make sure to install a rubberboot (Mile Hi Jeep Rebuilders item) over the throwout lever opening or sand anddirt will get into your clutch.
2.2 Assembling the Engine and Transmission
The transmission needs to have the Advance Adapters transmission-to-bellhousingadapter (712502) bolted onto the front of it. It's made out of aluminum so it'svery easy to strip the bolt holes in it. Be sure to torque the bolts to thespecifications supplied with the adapter. It's also a good idea to use a threadlock compound on these bolts since they tend to vibrate loose. Insert thetransmission input shaft into the bellhousing and slide the transmission in flushwith the bellhousing. Bolt the adapter to the bellhousing. Again, use the torquespecifications supplied and thread lock compound.
2.3 Assembling the Transmission and Transfer Case
See the section in the Universal Jeep Service Manual (page 181).
3.1 Engine Location
Engine location is critical. There are two major issues to keep in mind:
1) The engine should be as far forward in the Jeep as possible. This results intwo benefits; the engine fan is closer to the radiator, cooling the engine betterand the rear drive shaft is as long as possible. A longer rear drive shaft turnsat angles that are more favorable to the drive shaft Universal joints. This inturn leads to longer Universal joint life. It's not uncommon for short driveshaft Universal joints to fail in six months or less.
2) The engine should be as far to the driver's side of the Jeep as possible. Thisgives the maximum amount of clearance between the front drive shaft and thebellhousing. When the front axle comes up (picture driving over a rock forexample) the front drive shaft comes up also and can rub against thebellhousing. A small amount of rubbing seems to be unavoidable since every V6conversion examined (including the author's) has it. Excessive rubbing willshear the front drive shaft and they are expensive to replace.
This is how to correctly place the engine:
Remove the stock steering setup. Allthough the Advance Adapters Manual statesthat it is possible to retain the stock steering, it is incorrect. It is notpossible to place the engine properly with it in place (it is possible to do soin a CJ-5 but, they have a little bit more room under the hood than the CJ-3B).Hang the engine, transmission, transfer case and transmission cross member as a unit from an engine hoist. Move the whole assembly into the approximate locationwhere it will be located in the Jeep chassis. Level the drivetrain untill thecrossmember is touching the frame. Slide everything towards the front of the Jeepuntil the crossmember bumps up against the rear of the front axle spring mounts.This is as far forward as the engine will go. Now bolt the motor mounts on to theengine. Move the whole assembly as far to the drivers side as is possible whilemaking sure that the motor mounts are still over the top of the frame. Check theclearance between the drive shaft and the bellhousing. The idea is to maximizeclearance but still place the motor mounts in a position that will be strong whenthey're welded into place.
On offset of about 1" is possible without modifying the crossmember and thisshould give you enough room for the driveshaft to move freely. When you areabsolutely sure that you have the drivetrain in the best spot, weld the motormounts to the top of the frame. If you are not a good welder, contact a portablewelding company and have a qualified welder do the work. It's important to havestrong, deep welds on the motor mounts. Drill holes in the frame and bolt thecrossmember into it's new location. Be careful -- do not get underneath thedrivetrain until you have bolted and welded it into place. It weighs in excess of500 pounds and it will kill you if it falls on you.
4.1 Clutch Linkage
It is possible to fabricate a clutch linkage using the stock linkage. However,the linkage is very difficult to adjust and goes out of adjustment every time theframe flexes from off-roading. A better solution is to install the AdvanceAdapters chain clutch controller (part number 716640). It is expensive, but iseasy to adjust and maintains adjustment much better than the stock setup.
4.2 Saginaw Steering
Since the stock steering was removed in order to properly place the drivetrain,you'll need to replace it with a Saginaw steering setup. The Advance AdaptersConversion Manual will show you the proper way to install it, as well as providethe source for parts. A salvage yard 1974 CJ-5 is an excellent donor for steeringparts. A salvage yard Jeepster Commando is the best source for parts since it ispossible to do the conversion without any Advance Adapter parts. Unfortunately,these parts are next to impossible to find since Saginaw steering is a popularmodification for all Universal Jeep owners.
The rear driveshaft will need to be lengthened and the front driveshaft will needto be shortened. This has to be done by a qualified driveshaft repair shop. Thedriveshafts need to be carefully balanced or they will shake themselves topieces. If this happens, the driveshaft can drop down and wedge between the Jeepand the road, possibly resulting in a roll-over. In order to measure the lengthof the new driveshafts, measure the distance between the output yoke of thetransfer case and the input yoke of the differential. Do this for the front andthe rear driveshafts. Write it down and give it to the driveshaft shop when youtake them the driveshafts. While the driveshafts are being rebuilt, it's bestto have new Universal joints installed. Then the shop can balance the driveshaftswith the new Universal joints installed, which gives a better balance and lesswear from vibration.
4.4 Brake Pedal
Now that the engine has been offset to the driver's side, the brake pedal willhit the bellhousing when depressed. This prevents full application of the brakes.The pedal can heated with a torch and bent to give clearance. If you havesomeone step on the pedal while you watch where the pedal hits the bellhousing,you can measure how much and where the pedal needs to be bent. Take it to awelding shop for modification.
It is possible to use the stock V6 exhaust manifolds but it is a difficult andexpensive proposition. The exhaust pipes will have to be custom made and thedriver's side exhaust manifold will interfere with the placement of the Saginawsteering setup. A cheaper and easier alternative is to use Hedmann Headers for aCJ-5. They will clear the steering gear and drop out behind the front wheels. Fromthere, inexpensive mufflers can be bolted on. Use the smallest ones that CheckerAuto parts stocks. Remember that you will have a dual exhaust and will need twoof everything. The rear of the muffler needs to be supported or the muffler willcrack at the inlet and break off.
It is necessary to trim the fender skirts in order to fit the headers. Also,since the mufflers are outside the frame rails, directly behind the front wheels,they are susceptible to damage from rocks. This setup is also quite loud. But, itdoes make for good engine power since there is a minimal amount of backpressure.The only other alternative is the most expensive one: the fabrication of acompletely custom exhaust system from the cylinder heads back.
The stock radiator is an old fashioned low pressure type. Do not put a newer highpressure cap on it because the increased pressure will cause it to burst. It ispossible to use it but it will need to be modified. It is marginally capable of cooling the V6. The lower hose connection on the radiator will need to be movedfrom the driver's side to the passenger side. Any radiator shop can do this foryou. Have them install a 90 degree elbow that spills directly to the passengerside Now is a good time to have the radiator disassembled and cleaned. It costsa little more but it will ensure that the already marginal radiator is performingas well as possible.
The elbow will allow enough room to use a 13 inch engine driven fan. An electricfan will not cool the engine adequately. The combination of an engine fan and anelectric fan on the front of the radiator works the best. Your Jeep will haveoverheating problems in very hot weather after sustained hill climbs. Thealternative is to have a radiator shop custom build a four row radiator. If youlive in a hot climate, this might be a necessity.
4.7 Gas Pedal
You will not be able to use the stock gas pedal. The linkages from the pedal tothe carburetor use the stock engine to support them. Since that engine is gone,it's easier to replace the entire setup than to try and modify it. The gas pedalfrom a 1975 CJ-5 with a straight six engine will bolt to the firewall from theinside of the body tub. This pedal has a cable linkage that is compatible withthe linkages of the V6 carburetor and is about the right length. The onlydifficult installation item is the drilling of a square hole. The gas pedal endof the cable cover plugs into a square hole in the fire wall. The square holeanchors the cable cover, keeping it from moving with the cable as you step on thepedal. To make the square hole, drill a round hole in firewall and use a smallfile to square it up. The carburetor end of the cable is a direct bolt ininstallation.
You can find the pedal by canvassing your local junkyard. This part is fairlyeasy to find. The cable can be ordered new from most auto part dealers.
The easiest way to wire the engine is to cut the wiring harness at the firewalland install a junction block. You'll need at least a seven terminal block,depending on how you wire the engine. Then wire the engine back to the junctionblock.
The V6 came with two different kinds of alternators, which do not match the wiring harness of the CJ-3B; the stock motor uses a generatorinstead of an alternator. JC Whitney carries a GM style one wire alternatorwiring kit that makes alternator wiring much easier. It comes with aninstallation manual so there will be no instructions listed here. You shouldnot have to make any modifications to the wiring harness that supplies theheadlights. Make sure you don't cut it instead of the engine wiring harness.
(Ed. note: See also Eric Lawson's description of installing an alternator using the CJ-3B wiring harness.)
An important consideration when installing the alternator is thedistance between the alternator and the battery. The Universal Jeepframe is very flexible, which allows the axles to maintain contact withthe ground; this way engine power reaches the ground instead ofuselessly spinning a wheel that is hanging in the air. Unfortunately,all this flex allows the engine to tip toward the battery, bringing thealternator fan into contact with the battery. After the fan cuts a hole in thebattery, acid is sprayed throughout the engine compartment which stripsthe paint down to bare metal. Also, it's hard to get home with a hole inthe battery.
There are two solutions: 1) The battery can be clad in a1/8" steel plate shod which prevents the alternator fan from chewing ahole in the battery. This modification doesn't seem to affect thealternator reliability. 2) The battery can be relocated to the passengerside firewall. This will interfere with the stock heater hoses,indicating major heater modifications, but is probably the bestsolution.
(Ed. note: Photo shows a Buick 231 with battery on the firewall, in Jon Paulsen's CJ-3B.)
Now that your Jeep has twice as much horsepower, you should considerinstalling bigger brakes. The 11" drum brakes off any 1976 or later CJwill replace the stock 9" brakes. The brake conversion is a direct bolton swap with the exception of the brake lines. You may need to use apipe fitting adapter in order to bolt the flexible brake line to thesolid brake line.
Since the front brakes do most of the stopping, itis adequate to upgrade them only. If 31" or larger tires are installed,it is desirable to upgrade the rear brakes also. You will need to havethe stock hubs pressed out of the original brake drums in order toinstall larger brakes from a CJ-7. The 10" brakes off a V6 equippedCJ-5 are direct bolt in replacement.
(Ed. note: See also Jon Paulsen's Tech Tip on converting to 11" brakes.)
If this manual has made an engine conversion sound easy, don't be misled. Itis hard work and not for the faint-hearted. Plan on spending weeks preparing forand weeks actually doing the work. Then plan on spending weeks ironing out allthe problems that you'll find as you drive the Jeep. Every conversion takes on acharacter of its own and it's impossible to predict what problems will crop upin the process. However, if you follow this guide, you'll avoid the mostfrustrating (and expensive) problems that challenge most people.
Probably the most valuable information resource when it comes to a Jeep engineconversion is the staff at Mile Hi Jeep Rebuilders. If you're stumped by aproblem, go down and ask the staff about it. They don't mind spending time withtheir customers explaining what needs to be done and what parts you'll need (italso helps if you buy those parts from them). They have an amazing inventory ofJeep parts as well as an profound understanding of Jeeps.
Finally, it has to be considered whether it's worth the effort to install a V6 in a CJ-3B. The answer is absolutely yes. The V6 transforms a temperamental, anemic Jeep into a consumate off-road vehicle. There simply is no contemporary alternative that performs as well off-road, irrespective of sticker price.
-- Bruce D. Osborn
Advance Adapters, 800-350-2223, P.O. Box 247, 1645 Commerce Way, Paso Robles, CA 93447
JC Whitney, 312-431-6129, 2319 S Throop Street, P.O. Box 8410, Chicago, Il 60680
Jeeps Unlimited, 303-666-9020, 4245 Weld County Road 6, Erie, CO 80516
Mile Hi Jeep Rebuilders, 303-629-0378, 724 Federal Boulevard, Denver, Colorado 80204
Republic Jeep, 303-279-9209, 17169 So. Golden Road, Golden, CO 80401
Peter Bauer wrote to say, "I did the Buick conversion with my CJ/MB mixture last year. One suggestion: I had to use the Buick 231 V6 instead of the 225 because here in Europe these engines are hard to find. You are right, that these engines, due to their low compression, are not very powerful. But I changed this with a set of TRW pistons with 10.5:1 comp. ratio. (PAW $350, forged aluminum.) We tested this against a 225 Dauntless and there's no difference in the output. (The 225 has 9.5:1 comp. ratio.) I used a BOP adapter plate like is used for adapting Chevy auto. trans. to BOP engines. The bellhousing and the transmission (B&WT5, five speed) is from an Iron Duke-equipped CJ (hydraulic clutch linkage, Chevy bolt pattern!) The biggest advantage of the Buick 231 is the availability of spare and performance parts."
Jeff Burch mentions that Buick V6's are available from Remanufactured.Com.
CHILTON Repair and Tune-Up Guide: Jeep 1945 to 1987 (1987), Radnor, PA: Chilton Book Company (ISBN 0-8019-7675-8)
Instruction Manual: Jeep Vehicles 1941-1990 Engine and TransmissionConversion Kits (1994), Paso Robles, CA: Advance Adapters, Booklet No. JP001
Service Manual, Jeep Universal Series (1965), Form SM-1002-R6
Ken Bushdiecker supplied this list of common Dauntless rebuild part numbers:
FULL GASKET SETS:
DANA SPICER # FS 1193 VE (Victor / has front and rear neoprene main seals)
FELPRO # FS 8723 PT-7 (has front and rear rope main seals )
D-225 NEOPRENE FRONT MAIN SEALS;
Victor # 65025 SF
Felpro / Chicago Rawhide # 15200
National / Timken # 471424
Chicago Rawhide / SKF # 17285
D-225 NEOPRENE REAR MAIN SEALS:
Victor / Clevite # JV 742R
Felpro rear main # BS 40613
Clevite # RS 025
Mc Cord # BS 322
JEEP /Seal Tested part # depends on oversize of bore
Badger # P-367 (cast)
Silvolite # 1748 (cast)
Sealed Power # 1110P (cast)
Federal Mogul # 279P (cast)
Egge # 634 V-6 (forged)
TRW # L 2225 C-F (forged by Egge)
JEEP part # depends on oversize of piston
Hastings # 656 or 2M 656 (moly)
Sealed Power # 94885? (? = 6 for.060 O.S. pistons)
Perfect Circle # 50668 CP
General Motors # 1357868
I recommend Perfect Circle (which is Dana Spicer) or Cloyes
Set # 3-359
Chain General Motors # 1359707
Crankshaft Sprocket # S-323
Camshaft sprocket # S-334
General Motors # 1370109 intake
General Motors # 1370108 exhaust
General Motors # 1369928
Sealed Power # VS 644
General Motors # 5232245 (HL-47)
Federal Mogul # HT 896
Elgin # HC 1846S
RH Rocker arm General Motors # 119142
LH Rocker arm General Motors # 119143
Rocker shaft General Motors # 1388972
Clevite / Perfect Circle / Michigan /Sealed Power / TRW = # MS 960 P
Clevite / Perfect Circle / Michigan /Sealed Power / TRW = # DB 610 P
(make sure the new bearings are not of inferior split design)
Muskegon / Clevite # SH-506 S
Sealed Power / Federal Mogul # 1205M
Dura Bond # B-6
Melling # MPE 164R
General Motors 1396313
DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEAR:
General Motors # 1361749
FUEL PUMP ECCENTRIC:
General Motors # 1361789
General Motors # 1369715
OIL PRESSURE SWITCH:
JEEP # 94196
JEEP # 914847
or # T303 / T304
OIL FILL CAP:
AC # KV-1016
VALVE COVER BREATHER:
General Motors # 1364792
General Motors # 1364117
JEEP # 9929501
JEEP # 6422053
AC # CV-684
General Motors # 1355720
HELP # 42056
General Motors # 1365014
General Motors # 1374877
WATER PUMP BY-PASS HOSE:
General Motors # 1358954
Thanks to Bruce for this manual which was one of the first technical articles on The CJ3B Page, originally posted in 1997. Thanks to Ken, Peter and Jeff for their additions. -- Derek Redmond
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