His and Hers CJ-3Bs

by Robert W. Harris, Clinton, Tennessee
 

Back in December of 2002, I was planning a restoration project on two Jeeps -- one a '53, and the other a '63. Before starting my project I read everything I could find on CJ3B.info. Needless to say, it was very helpful, and I have now completed both Jeeps: HERCJ3B is my wife Mary's, and that is her license tag number. My 3B bears license tag number HISCJ3B. Both Jeeps are painted the original green color using the original paint numbers obtained from CJ3B.info.
 

For HERCJ3B (the '53, on the left in these two photos) I used the frame from one Jeep which I had a title for, and the engine from another Jeep which I had a title for, so I was required to apply for a new title: Specially Constructed Vehicle Title #71622269. Without going into a lot of detail, every thing that rusts, rots or wears out has been repaired or replaced, starting with the frame. The engine block has been rebored and a complete engine rebuilt (90K JPEG). Transmission and transfer case (80K JPEG) completely rebuilt also, plus all new body.

In lieu of the original side mounted spare tire, I chose to fabricate a rear mounted swing-out type (110K JPEG) because of the oversize wheels and tires. I thought the side mount would be a little obtrusive.

The "Bulldog" hood ornament is from a Mack truck. I had one on the original 3B I bought new in 1953.
 

My wife's mother, who has now passed away, got me started in vehicle restoration when she gave me a 1948 International Harvester Cub tractor years ago. My son David sparked my interest in restoring Willys Jeeps. I had owned a new 1953 Willys Jeep and gave it to him in the early 1960s to trade in on his first car. Years later, he came in driving a similar Jeep, old and rusty, and said, "Here's your Jeep back." I told him I didn't want it, but he insisted I keep it.
 

In completely disassembling to the bare frame, practically every nut and every bolt is a challenge. Starting with the frame, the spring hanger bracket holes were elongated, so those were the first new parts to be replaced -- not an easy task since they are both riveted and welded on to the frame.I had the frame and axle housings sandblasted and primed with an epoxy primer, and finished with GM chassis black.
 

One thing I read was how difficult it was to remove the steering wheel, so I thought I might as well tackle that first. I made a slide hammer, but it was not up to the task. I then modified it so as to utilize a hydraulic jack, which did the job. See photos in Steering Wheel Removal on CJ3B.info.

Since the hydraulic jack worked so well on the steering wheel, I made a hub puller to remove the rear axles the same way. See details in Brake Drum and Wheel Hub Removal.
 

Repro Bodies

Just a few of the problems I experienced with the two Omix-Ada repro bodies I purchased:

• A blank dash with no cutouts, as well no cutouts in the floor for the brake, clutch & steering column is not a serious problem. However, no relief, or stamping in the dash for the hand brake and steering column is a serious problem. Not to mention no dash to firewall bracing.To remedy this I cut out the entire section of my old dash with holes, stampings, etc. and welded it into the new tub.
• After setting the tub on the frame, I noticed the floor pan resting on the transmission, requiring raising the tub for clearance. The cutout for the transmission shifter and the transfer case shifters are located too far to the rear making it necessary to lengthen the cutout approximately two inches. This in turn requires the cutout cover to be relocated, rendering the weld nuts under the floor pan useless.
• The outlet for the gas tank is located too far to the rear, requiring elongating the hole, which the rubber grommet will not cover sufficiently.
• The windshield frame does no fit the tub cowling -- not wide enough. I could not think of any remedy for this, so with a lot of welding and body filler, I used my original.

• The hood is too narrow at cowling requiring placing a three eighths of an inch thick spacer under the hinge. This raises the hood and moves it forward at the same time, making it usable, but leaves too much of a gap between hood and cowling.
• Of the four fenders I purchased, only one mounted with an acceptable flat surface. They should be flat when mounted, not angled down.To remedy this I elongated the holes on the mounting bracket which bolts to the frame and placed spacers between the bracket and frame. This allowed the top surface of the fender to flatten out somewhat, but still not perfect.
• The Omix comes with two angle brackets welded to the inside of the dash, but not welded to the cowling, which makes them useless. This brace is necessary to prevent the dash from flexing when latching the windshield down.
• Apparently Omix doesn't make any two tubs the same. At least my two differed in several respects. For instance, only one tub had to be raised to clear the transmission -- the other one was OK. However, they both had the other problems I have mentioned.
• To add to the problem with the Omix body, as well as adding to the expense, it comes with some sort of coating that flakes off, making it necessary to sand, sandblast, or chemically remove before painting. I chose to sandblast, which adds about five hundred plus dollars.

I didn't know how I'd handle retirement, but I haven't had any trouble. The secret is, you've got to stay busy.

Mary sometimes drives HERCJ3B to her job at the Anderson County Courthouse. And the newlyweds in the wedding picture (90K JPEG) are Josh Bunch and my granddaughter Natalie Harris -- they drove her granny's Jeep at their wedding on 21 July 2007.
 

Thanks to Bob for the story and photos. -- Derek Redmond

Return to Jeep CJ-3B Owners and Photos.

Visit CJ3B.info on Facebook.

CJ3B Home | Contents | Search | Links | 3A and 3B Community