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Rust Removal


Touch Up

Clint Spaar asked on the CJ-3B Bulletin Board: "What does everyone think of using rust converter/ inhibitors on rusting spots? I just purchased a 3B, and there are some spots on the body, fenders, and tailgate that are rusty. Won't get to major painting of these areas for a while, but if I can prevent further damage in the meantime, this would be a good thing."

Clint got several different answers:

Jeff Spencer: "I swear by the converter I use -- it "kills" the rust and can be painted over. On many occasions I have used this solely with great results. Another product is "fisholene," a fish-oil-based product and is great on those hard-to-get-at parts because of its viscosity. Mixed with kerosene it really runs into all the crevices. And you can get it now deodorised. Cutting out the metal is the only real answer, but this comes close."

POR-15Pat Gray: "POR-15 is the best by far. I've used the fish-oil-based paint and it works, but the POR-15 is a super-tough coating and it will out-last your grandkids. Their web site is http://www.por-15.com."

Matt Gomel: "Wire brush the spot real good and then put a good coating of Naval Jelly (you can get it at a Home Depot store) on it, and then put a coat of Rustoleum primer on, and it should be fine."

Anybody else have a favourite product?

Paint Stripping

GrilleWhile taking a break from stripping the paint off his 1953 CJ-3B (left and below), Ed Giandomenico posted some questions on the Bulletin Board:

"I have started to strip my 3B using chemical paint remover ($28.00 a gallon, 2 Gallons used). I have successfully removed the paint from the fenders, the hood and the tailgate but I still have to do the tub, The windshield frame, headlights and a few other small pieces. My questions are:

1) Paint removal. I think I have decided that it is worth it to me to have the rest of the work done by professionals. What is the best method for removing paint from a Jeep, and what are the alternatives? What might I expect to spend for this type of service?

2) Rust inhibitors. After the paint removal is accomplished, should I treat the sheet metal with a rust inhibitor? If so is there a recommended product?

3) Sheet metal work. The tub will require some repair. The hat sections under the floor panels in both the passenger and drivers sides of the tub are rusted out so they no longer provide structural support. There are also several spots under the tool box which have rusted through, and the sheet metal is thin in this entire area. What is the best permanent repair for this type of damage?

WindshieldRankine Roth: "I have sandblasted the fenders of my 1960 CJ-3B with a very fine sand using a Campbell-Hausfeld 60 sandblaster and it took about 20 minutes to do both, and about 25 pounds of sand (a 50-pound bag costs about $2.80). This way is very inexpensive and fast. I have heard mixed reviews about sandblasting body panels, but if you use a light sand and turn the air pressure down a bit you will have no problems. Not to mention the primer sticks great to the sandblasted panels!

"As for rust, I just painted my engine and frame with POR-15 and it is awesome!! It dries to a rock-hard finish and the POR-15 chemically bonds to the rust an neutralizes it. It is expensive but I sprayed it on and a quart did my frame with some left over."

JC Jenkins: "In California, due to the hazardous material laws , I doubt you will be able to 'sand' blast the tub , but you can find someone to use a "baking soda" composite to blast off the paint. A friend had his Bantam trailer done -- it was $150, and left almost no etching."

Jeff Spencer: "Sandblasting in Australia is now considered hazardous and I think illegal in most states. It is to do with long time exposure to those in the industry. They now use glass beads with, supposedly, good results."

Piet Versleijen: "Sandblasting is the best way to start a body restoration. Remove all rotten parts and all the channels before the sandblasting. Always use fine sand. Under the channels is always a lot of rust. In my case some channels were rotted completely away. After sandblasting and inspection, I used a zinc-based undercoat before welding new channels in place. On my 3B there is now paint in places where there never was before." See Restoring a 1956 Military CJ-3B for photos.

See also Floor Panel Replacement and Jeep Frame Painting on CJ3B.info.


Thanks to Ed Giamenico for the photos, and to all the contributors. More comments are welcome. -- Derek Redmond

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Last updated 4 February 2001 by Derek Redmond redmond@cj3b.info
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All content not credited and previously copyright, is copyright Derek Redmond